Sunday,27-September-2015

Xantia XU7JP4 - 1.8 timing belt

EN There are many manuals how to replace that timing belt, but here wish to show my first time on Xantia
Engine is LFY XU7JP4 model 1999-2000 with tension pulley, which is semi automatic with indicator arrow.
belt0.jpg
! In my case the accessory belt pulley`s bolt(what is mounted on the crank) was really hard to release. I`ve need torque gun for it. Suggest to you to use sam, not try with wrench.

What to do:
Remove the ground cable from the battery

Removing the plastic,covered the belt is little piece of nerve
- take the plastic cover over the right engine pillow
- put jack under the engine, lift and remove the bracket

belt1.jpg

- take out all small nuts(of it) and pull the top plastic out
- remove the accessory belt. In my case I decide to replace it with new one and put new support pulleys for it
- put back the engine mount bracket and tight it to the engine block. Not need to add the nut over the pillow it just to keep the motor
- remove all spark plugs
- un-tight the accessory belt pulley on the crank. Here you can try to put on fifth gear or reverse and pull on the max the hand break, or in case you do that on Peugeot or Xsara with same engine push the breaks. Anyway, is much better to use air or electrical torque gun instead upper described technique.
- now remove the screws which kept the crank cover shield, and the bolts from the head that are kept the plastic cover(help later)

belt2.jpg
belt6.jpg
belt7.jpg
belt3.jpg
belt4.jpg
belt5.jpg
belt8.jpg

- rotate with key the crank(using pulley bolt) until the slots(holes) on the camshaft sprocket are over the holes in the head
- put the pins/or M6 bolts/ to lock

belt10.jpg

- take caliper(or indicator clock with long arm) and via the spark plug holes measure the piston level(I used caliper because think was more handy). In case all measures are different more than 1-2mm you can fix that later on when remove the old belt.
There is hole on the crack belt pulley acting as timing point but when the pulley get old the rubber layer on that pulley give chance to slip the mark against the key.
- use that plug:
belt11.jpg
to drain as much cooling liquid you can, and for that purpose remove also the coolant tank cap,release the air bleeding points
belt17.jpg belt18.jpg
- lock the crank
belt9.jpg
- remove the V-belt pulley and the shield plastic behind it

- remove the old belt. I just pull it out or you can cut it, or unscrew little the tension pulley and with allen key put the arrow max to the right and tight again
- remove the water pump and the pulleys.
belt13.jpg belt12.jpg
- if there is little difference between the 1st and 2th cylinder piston level, remove the crank lock and make it same by slightly rotating forward or backward the crank

- fit the new pulleys(yep I replace both of them). Idler tight with 25-30Nm and the tension one little
- fit water pump,lock the crank
belt9.jpg
- unscrew and remove the camshaft sprockets one by one and clean to be sure no oil,grease or similar is between the contact surfaces. !DO NOT REMOVE THE PINS !!
belt10.jpg
Put back and tight that will be little hard to rotate them few degrees forward and backward but still to be able to move them by hand.
- rotate them clockwise until full stop
- now fitting the new belt opposite the clock (mechanical ones not electronic 010.gif ) direction and keep in mind the arrows on the belt to show clockwise
- start from the crank
Do not leave the belt to move or to be loose during that fit, then idler pulley, inlet sprocket. Now here probably it will be little misaligned,so you can rotate the sprocket little anti clockwise until fit, same on exhaust camshaft sprocket.
Also between adding on the second do not loose the belt. Keep tight as much as you can. Now from the crank, fit on water pump and as last over the tension pulley. I`have seen many ways of doing that but in my case and tight space didn`t manage to fit last over tension pulley. So I fit as described above, but left the water pump last. Then used two screw drivers and “push” the timing belt over it. Ugly but do the job for me and there is “plenty” of room.
belt16.jpg
- now tight little more the tension pulley bolt and with allen key rotate until the arrow goes about 10-15° behind the cut slot clockwise direction
- tight in about 25Nm it bolt
- tight to 40-55Nm (I do on 55Nm) the cam sprockets bolts
- remove the lock and the pins and with V-belt pulley back on crank make 4-5 rotation clockwise normal engine work direction. (if the pins do not go easy back turn little backward the engine
- put the arrow if it`s not already there, in the middle of the slot or to its right corner
belt15.jpg
- tight to 35Nm the tension pulley bolt
- make few clockwise crank rotation with the key again by hand and check if on the cam shaft pin slots are again on right place over the marks in the head and pins can fit and again measure with the caliper the piston levels.

If all seems fine:
- remove the V-belt pulley
- fit back that down shield plastic
- return the V-belt pulley and tight the bolt by hand
- put the crank lock
belt9.jpg
- again of fifth gear/or reverse/ handbreak on max and tight the bolt to 100-150Nm
- return on spot the V-belt
- fit the spark plugs, close the radiator drain hole
- add cooling liquid until it start to bleed out from the thermostat bolt and tight it, then close the heating pipe nipple
- leave the cooling tank cap open and fill almost to the right level.
- put back the ground cable and start the engine for while to see if all run well.
- add more liquid if need.
- stop the engine. Fit back the cover shields, and engine pillow nut and so on.
- after that leave the engine to run for while until the thermostat open and fan start. Then bleed the air from the two points
belt17.jpg belt18.jpg

Good luck, and to be sure check the right NM torque in case my memory is cheating on me.