EN - the head flash light arrive as gift(thanks mate), and it was equipped with 3.7V 3.0A batteries which quite soon start to give up on “little” more use. So i decide to take my chances and broke apart one old Asus notebook battery. Inside was few bad cells but 4 at least was just fine. So, here it go. Little cut on top(the forehead of accumulator is same straight surface as the bottom) and adding little soldiering wire. Job done, and even work
|That car has originally "automatic" lights. Under "automatic" mode the park light and dipped beam was on when the car starts. On position park light, the park bulb is ON, dipped beam - OFF. And after that the next one again put the dipped ON My solution was to isolate that constant park light pin in the switch and to use relay. When start the car the power what goes to the dipped beam will be redirected via normally closed relay pin to the LED DRL. When switch the park light ON it will drive the relay to supply dipped beam.
|Колата оригинално имаше стандартни дневни светлини. Пуснати габарити и къси при стартиране. Защо и габарити.. нямам идея, немска му работа.Габаритите остават пуснати заради втори пин в ключа който постоянно е на контакт заедно с късите.При завъртане на габарити, късите са спряни и нататък са все пуснати. Идеята ми бе да изолирам постоянния пин на габарита,и LED светлините закупени от собственика да станат за дневни светлини.Чрез реле, постоянния ток към фаровете когато колата заработи се пуска да захранва само тях, при завъртане на габарит да светва само габарита а на къси, габарита да управлява релето в позиция да си светят късите.
|To take the switch out, rotate in position 0, push forward, and in that state rotate to park light position and pull, and when open inside isolate the pin
|За да извадите ключа, натискате в позиция нула напред към мотора, и така натиснато се завърта към габарит и се издърпва,след което изолираме пина
|That story began with that the car originally was with central locking system, but it work only if you put the key within the locker, or push the buttons inside on the door arm rest.No remote,no joy. The owner bought some box that the seller claim will perfectly do the job and here we go:
|Историята започна с идеята, че собственика на това возило искаше да си има регулярно централно с дистанционно. Е то централно си имаше рабтещо фабрично но то само действаше ако се сложи ключа в ключалката или се натиснат копчетата отвътре. Той купил едно универсално модулче, за което продавача твърдял че това е неговото решение на проблема. Или:
|There was one old, small as storage 2.5" HDD, laying around. And one morning the idea appear - why not to put it in frame?
|Из дома се търкаляше един 2.5" диск от лаптоп чиито обем го правеше потенциален кандидат за коша.. докато една заран - идеята се оформи.. Защо да не стане за украса?
My project began just as most - from having fun of drawing
I found some material in internet and check others projects. Well, it turn to not be the breaking bone practice so i deside to order parts and to give it a try.
Sony or Pioneer have resistor based wire remote. And because I bought one PIONEER DEH with 3.5mm plug for wire remote I start that project.
Internet investigation give me the list of the needed resistor values. The work was to replace resistors and redesign little the track relation and.. to enjoy the feeling of not touching the stereo when driving.
Schematic is enough I think to get all idea
That was my first removing for that car,the reason was - burned backlight and signal lamps.
Interesting - front fog lights are connected via relay, but why the hell the main one is only .. through the key? And here it come my idea
I remove the fuses. On every fuse position you have +12V coming from the light stalk, and the second is the exit to the lamps. I toke +12V straight from the battery plug to the relay, from there it goes to the output pin of the fuse. The input one from the stalk is used to control the relay. In that way the high current is removed from the stalk, and the main beam lights work much brighter. Job done!
BG: на български
EN: My rear wiper was just stuck. Any attempt for use lead to burn fuse. So here is what i decide to make:
Remove the mottor, and remove all rivets that keep the aluminum cover. That will be replaced by small screws. Just drill suitable holes for M3.5 or M4.0
Clean really well the mechanical part and check the bronze contacts. Add grease.
After that open the relay cover with screw drivers and check for broken soldier points same as marked on the image. Clear the contacts, what is possible by gently pull out the contact plate.
Here how you can save few bucks by not paying for new unit.Good luck!